To make your own handle, first select the wood you wish to use—I used a piece of zebrawood because of its beautiful grain.

Use either a coping saw or a band saw to cut out the handle. Then use a belt sander or wood files and sandpaper to smooth and shape it to size.

Most carving blades are not full tang, meaning they have a short, flat extension into the handle. A full tang extends the length of your handle. Most Mora blades have a long tang, but I chose to cut mine shorter to about 2″ (5.1cm) long.

Since the Mora blade is flat, I cannot just drill a hole and glue the blade in—I need to mark the width of the blade on one of the ends of my handle (select a drill bit slightly larger than the thickness of the tang) and drill a few close holes along the line. Clean out the thin pieces of wood between the drill holes.

Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the blade tang and a little down into the hole. Slide the blade in and wipe away any excess with a rag. Let dry. Add a coat of finish to the handle and strop the blade. Check for a secure git and no wobbling before you begin to carve.

Create a template and trace the design on the wood running with the grain.

Make a handle from a simple piece of oak, or deck out a “dream blade” with a piece of exotic hardwood.

An artist for over 30 years, John Allard is a professional multimedia artist who works as a sculptor in the toy industry and as an illustrator in advertising and publishing. His hobbies are power carving, whittling, and metal engraving. Email him at allarddesignstudio@yahoo.com.

Mounting a Carving Directly

To attach a large carving to the arm, use a carver’s screw. Drill a pilot hole into the bottom of the blank and thread the carver’s screw into the hole. Carver’s screws are available from most carving supply stores.

For small carvings, you can use a common hanger bolt in lieu of a carver’s screw. Hanger bolts, which have a machine-thread bolt on one end and a lag screw on the other end, are often sold in the plumbing area of hardware stores. I suggest a 5/16″-dia. by
4″-long (8mm by 102mm) hanger bolt.

To attach the hanger bolt to the blank, drill a 3/16″ (5mm)-dia. pilot hole in the bottom of the carving, and thread the lag part of the bolt into the hole. The hanger bolt should protrude at least 2-3/8″ (60mm) so you can attach the piece to the carving arm.

Twist a carver’s screw or hanger bolt into the bottom of the carving.

Using a Mounting Block or Plug

It can be difficult to use a carver’s screw with some projects, such as relief carvings or figures without bases. To mount carvings like this, I use a carriage bolt attached to a temporary mounting block.

To mount a relief carving, choose a piece of 3/4″ (19mm)-thick wood that is large enough to insert at least four wood screws into the relief carving. Position the screws in areas that will not protrude into the finished carving. Drill and countersink the holes for the screws in the bottom of the mounting block. Drill and counter-bore the hole for the carriage bolt in the center of the top of the mounting block. Drive the carriage bolt through the hole and then screw the mounting block to the relief carving.

For an in-the-round carving that doesn’t have a base, such as a human or animal figure, choose a 3/4″ (19mm)-thick piece of wood big enough for the figure to stand on. Determine where the feet will be located and drill and countersink holes positioned so the screws will go into the feet and legs.

Drill a hole for the carriage bolt in the center of the mounting block. To ensure the carriage bolt sits below the surface of the mounting block, counter-bore a shallow hole the same size as the head of the carriage bolt in the top of the mounting block and drive the carriage bolt down through the hole. Use wood screws to attach the carving to the mounting block.

For hollow items, like cane heads, make a plug that fits into the blank. Drill a pilot hole in the plug and insert the lag end of a hanger bolt into the hole. Use wood screws to attach the plug to the blank. When the carving is finished, back out the wood screws to free the carving from the plug.

Use a mounting block to attach a relief carving to a carving arm.

Use a mounting block for an in-the-round carving that does not have  a base.

When you can’t drill into the blank, create a plug. 

Choosing a Handle

Once you have attached a carver’s screw or bolt to the blank or mounting block, you can use either a commercial or a shop-made handle to mount the blank to the carving arm.

To use a commercial handle, place a 5/16″ (8mm)-dia. fender washer onto the carver’s screw or bolt and then add a 5/16″-16 five-star knob.

To make a handle, sketch the shape as pictured. Drill a 1/2″ (13mm)- dia. by 5/8″ (16mm) deep hole in the inner curve and then drill a 5/16″ (8mm) hole all the way through. Cut around the perimeter of the handle. Install a 5/16″-16 threaded insert into the larger hole. Thread a fender washer onto the carver’s screw or bolt and loosely twist on your shop-made handle.

Buy a handle or make your own. 

Using a Carving Arm

Keep the handle loose enough that you can slide the bolt through the slot in the carving arm. Make sure the fender washer is against the handle and tighten until the carving is held securely.

To rotate the carving as you work, simply loosen the handle or knob. Be sure to re-tighten the handle before working again.

Use a handle to attach the mounting block to the carving arm.

LaVerne “Sid” Sidler was a woodworker for more than 50 years and an award-winning woodcarver for over 40 years.

Getting Started

Cut the stock to length using the parts list and diagrams as guides. I use a miter saw. Several pieces have angles cut on the ends; use the drawings to make sure you angle the ends properly. Drill the holes marked on the drawings. Then, apply a waterproofing finish to the pieces. This allows you to leave the main structure of the frame outside; I suggest you bring the press screw and any other metal hardware inside.

To screw in hanger bolts, tighten two nuts against each other. Use a wrench on the top nut to turn the hanger bolt into the table.

Assembling the Frame

Use the assembly drawings as guides to assemble the stand. Drive the table bolts (P) about 3 1/2″ (89mm) into the edge of the press screw mount (H) and clamping tables (I, J) (see Tip). To make it easy to drive the screws at an angle through the table brace (C) into the back table (G), drill pilot holes slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to mount the press screw.

Using the Frame

Secure the frame to the ground using heavy-duty shepherd-crook-shaped tent stakes. To use the press screw, insert the table screw through the hole of your choice in the upright and lock it in place with the wing nut.  Use the size of the carving to determine where to position the clamping table, and lock it in place with the wing nut. Then, secure the carving with the press screw. Use the other clamping table with a hanger bolt or carving screw to secure an in-the-round carving. Use the back table to secure in-the-round carvings or relief carvings using the press screw mounted on the other side of the upright or with ordinary clamps.

MATERIALS

• Construction 2x4s: 2 each, 8′ (2.44m) long

• Construction 2x6s: 2 each, 8′ (2.44m) long

• Construction 2×10: 8′ (2.44m) long

• Shoulder vise screw: 9″ (22.9cm) long (see Special Sources below)

• Hanger bolts, 3/8″ (10mm) dia.: 3 each, 6″ (15.2cm) long

• Wing nuts, 3/8″ (10mm) dia.: 3 each, with 3″ (76mm) wingspan

• Washers, 3/8″ (10mm) inside dia.: 3 each, 1 1/2″ (38mm) outer dia.

• Exterior deck screws: 1 1/2″ (38mm) long, 2 1/2″ (64mm) long, 3″ (76mm) long

• Shepherd-crook-shaped tent stakes: 2 each

TOOLS

• Saws: miter, circular

• Hand drill with bits: 5/16″ (8mm), 3/8″ (10mm), 7/8″ (22mm) dia.

• Level

SPECIAL SOURCES

An 11 1/2″ (29.2cm)-long veneer press clamp (part number D2893) is available for $16.50 from Grizzly Industrial, grizzly.com, and other online retailers.

Hanger bolts and wing nuts are available for $1.93 each (bolts) and $6.88 each (wing nuts) from MSC, MSCDirect.com.

Ralph Beam is a retired high school earth science teacher who lives in Mishawaka, Ind., with his wife Kay.
He immersed himself in carving after retiring and joined the Council Oaks Woodcarvers Club in South Bend, Ind.
His carving focus is wood spirits.

Selecting the Wood

I made my box from regular 1/2″ (13mm)-thick plywood, but you could use Baltic birch for a nicer look. The project can be made from a single 24″ by 24″ (610mm by 610mm) sheet of plywood, a piece of lauan plywood, and an Altoids® mints tin. The only critical dimensions are the inside length, width, and height of the space for the can. If you use a different can, add 1/8″ (3mm) to all of the can’s dimensions to provide enough room to remove it easily.

Because we’re using plywood and the bottom covers the edges of the sides, the joints are pretty strong. But this project is made to be used and abused, so you may consider reinforcing the joints with brads or screws.

Getting Started

Mark and cut the sides. It looks nicer if the visible grain runs in the long direction. Rip all of the sides at the same time to ensure they are all the same width. 

Assembling the Box

Step 1: Glue and clamp the sides together to make the box frame. Leave the internal pieces out for now. Assemble the sides on a flat surface to ensure they are even on the bottom. Measure diagonally from corner to corner to make sure the frame is square. 

Step 2: Get the long partition. Cut the shortest partition piece and an additional one to use as a spacer. Place them at the front and back of the frame to locate the position for the longer internal partition. Glue and clamp the longer partition in place. 

Step 3: Get the short partition. Place the shorter partition in place and check for clearance using the mint tin, and then glue and clamp the short partition in place.

Carving the Desk Assembly Drawing

Step 4: Determine and mark the center for the top hole. Drill a 1/8″ (3mm) pilot hole on the mark. Drill about halfway through at the hole with a 1 3/8″ (35mm)-diameter Forstner bit. Turn the top over and use the pilot hole as a guide to drill the rest of the way through with the Forstner bit. This will reduce tear-out on both sides of the top.

Step 5: Attach the hinges. Cut slots for the hinges so the top can lay flat. Use a chisel. Drill pilot holes for the screws, if desired. Make sure the hole in the top lines up with the opening for the mint tin. Screw the hinges to the top and the back frame.

Step 6: Use the frame as a guide to verify the size of the bottom piece. Mark and cut the bottom. Glue and clamp it in place, and allow the glue to dry. Round the sharp outside corners of the top, bottom, and frame with sandpaper.

Step 7: Install the clasp in the center of the front of the frame. I used glue on the screw because it is going into the edge of the top, but do not get any glue on the clasp. Apply your favorite finish or leave bare.

Materials

• Wood, such as plywood, 1/2″ (1.3cm) thick: 24″ x 24″ (61cm x 61cm)

• Wood, such as lauan plywood, 1/8″ (3mm) thick: optional for bottom, cut the exact size, 12″ x 18″ (30.5cm x 45.7cm)

• Altoids® mints tin

• Hinges: 2 each 1 1/2″ (38mm)

• Clasp

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper

Tools

• Drill with bits: 1/8″ (3mm) dia. twist; 1 3/8″ (35mm) dia. Forstner bit

• Chisel

• Hammer

• Screwdriver

• Clamps

Tom Noller started carving in 2009 after retiring as an engineer. He is the president and newsletter editor for the Lake Ray Hubbard Woodcarving Club located in Rowlett, Texas.

Brighten up a dreary day with this whimsical winter character carving pattern.

With few artistic exceptions, every face or figure carving has a nose. While each nose is unique, once you learn the basics on how to carve one, you can create a custom one for every carving. Free pattern included.

This project is sure to brighten your evenings. Free pattern included.

Read about how Jeffro Uitto both creates beautifully sculpted furniture from recycled wood and forges his own handmade tools.

A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to the Pinewood Derby. Our “quick and easy” book update turned into a major project, complete with destruction, do-overs, plenty of laughs, and a heap of physics. Click here for a peek behind the scenes as we try to make it to the finish line with our guide to Pinewood Derby cars.

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editors@foxchapelpublishing.com

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Thinking of submitting a project for our Reader Gallery? Want to make your carving project stand out in a photograph? Look no further! Click on the links below to views tips on how to better light, compose, focus, and size your photographs.

CLICK HERE for tips about photo lighting.

CLICK HERE for tips about photo composition.

CLICK HERE for tips about photo focus.

CLICK HERE for tips about photo resolution.

Caricature Soldiers by Floyd Rhadigan is available now! The book includes patterns for a dozen military men and women. Click here for more information.