painting Archives - Woodcarving Illustrated https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/tag/painting/ Everything for the woodcarving enthusiast, from tips and techniques and tool reviews to patterns and instructions for amazing projects that both beginners and advanced woodcarvers will love! Tue, 23 Dec 2025 16:54:48 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9 https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/cropped-Woodcarving-Illustrated-Favicon-120x120.png painting Archives - Woodcarving Illustrated https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/tag/painting/ 32 32 Pear-Shaped Santa https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/pear-shaped-santa/ Wed, 05 Nov 2025 19:35:00 +0000 https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/?p=24599 Turned blank allows you to carve without worrying about symmetry...

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Turned blank allows you to carve without worrying about symmetry and proportions

By Roger Beane

Pear-shaped wood turnings allow you to skip the roughing out phase and jump right to carving the details. Plus, the shape offers infinite design possibilities.

I bought two of these turnings at a carving show and carved them both while there. Before the show ended, I’d bought all of the pears the vendor had at his table, and then ordered more to be delivered to me later. The shape is so versatile that you’ll never run out of uses for it. Before you begin carving, check out how to have an easy cleanup with just freezer paper and a few pieces of tape.

Getting Started

Trace or sketch the pattern onto the pear. Carve along the pencil lines with a 1/4″ (6mm) V-tool and make stop cuts in the V-grooves with a knife.

Prepping and Carving

I adapt my typical face-carving techniques to the shape of this blank. Remember that the highest point of the face is the tip of the nose, the deepest part of the face is the eye sockets, and the narrowest part of the face is at the temples.

I add the wrinkles using V-tools and use 5/32″ (4mm) and 3/16″ (5mm) #11 gouges to add the hair and beard texture. When texturing the hair, make sure there are no straight lines. Carve a series of lazy S’s and C’s. Vary the depth of your cuts and do not leave any flat spaces.

Painting and Finishing

Wash your carving with Simple Green and water. Remove the excess water with a soft cloth or paper towels and immediately start painting (while the carving is still wet). Dilute the acrylic paint with water to create a wash. Refer to the Painting Notes for the colors I used.

While the paint dries, squeeze a 2″ (5.1cm)-long strip of burnt sienna oil paint into a pint jar full of mineral spirits to dissolve the paint. Then, add the pint of dissolved paint to a quart of boiled linseed oil. Mix thoroughly and after the paint is dry, dip your carving into the mixture and remove. Let it sit for five minutes, and then wipe off the excess with a paper towel. Dispose of the oil-soaked paper towels carefully; they can spontaneously combust. Allow the carving to dry thoroughly. Then, add the accent colors.

 

MATERIALS

• Basswood turning, pear-shaped: 2 5/8″ (6.7cm) dia. by 3 1/2″ (8.9cm) tall

• Simple Green®

• Acrylic paints: alizarin crimson, black, burnt sienna, ivory white, medium flesh, tompte red

• Finish: boiled linseed oil

• Oil paint: burnt sienna

• Mineral spirits

• Paper towels

TOOLS

• Carving knife

• #11 gouges: 5/32″ (4mm), 3/16″ (5mm), 9/32″ (7mm)

• V-tools: 1/8″ (3mm), 1/4″ (6mm), 3/8″ (10mm)

• Paintbrushes: assorted

About the Author

Roger Beane is a retired middle school teacher who started carving in the early 1980s. He carves a variety of caricatures and Christmas items and teaches carving classes. He lives in Oskaloosa, Iowa, with his wife, Andrea (who helped him write this article).

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Woodcarving Illustrated Winter Issue, Issue #113 https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/woodcarving-illustrated-winter-issue-issue-113/ Thu, 30 Oct 2025 19:42:11 +0000 https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/?p=24551 The Winter 2025 issue of Woodcarving Illustrated includes a variety of...

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The Winter 2025 issue of Woodcarving Illustrated includes a variety of projects, patterns, and features, as well as interesting techniques. This issue is a part of the regular magazine subscription. It is also available from your favorite retailer or from Fox Chapel Publishing, foxchapelpublishing.com or 1-800-457-9112.

Scroll down for a sneak peek!

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In This Issue

Techniques

Santa’s List

Discover a unique painting technique that provides a stunning depth of color

By Kevin Applegate

 

Cottonwood Bark Santa

Embrace the uniqueness of this free-form wood and use its flaws to your advantage

By Bob Hershey

Projects

White Christmas Bear

This friendly guy is ready to spread some cheer during the holidays

By Dale Green

 

Lumberjack Santa

Carve an undercover Claus who’s hunting for the perfect Christmas tree

By Jonathan Creason

 

Arctic Fox

Practice carving movement with this frosty creature on the run

By Wouter de Bruijn

Happy Christmas Tree

Get into the holiday spirit with a cheerful carving that looks like a cartoon character

By Gerard Canavan

Bottle Buddy Santa

Create a gift that keeps on giving with a jolly bottle opener

By Dwayne Gosnell

Santa Pyrography

A few basic woodburning nibs create a jolly and easy holiday wall hanging

By Minisa Robinson

Christmas Elf

Showcase the hard workers of the North Pole as they prepare for Santa’s big night

By Matt Kincade

Patterns

Caricature Candy Cane

Big posable hands and friendly expressions make these ornaments irresistible

By Pete Zanauskas

Elf Boot Ornament

These festive little ornaments make a charming jingle jangle

By Wade Huggins

Festive Rolling Pins

Cook up a chip-carved holiday cookie press 

By Jan Jenson

Chip-Carved Ornaments

A layer of acrylic paint accentuates a festive design

By Charlene Lynum

Old Fashioned Ornaments

Imitate the look of retro glass decorations with this fun project

By Jim Hiser

 

Two-in-One Knife Box

Keep carving tools safe and ready to go with this compact geometric case

By Marty Leenhouts

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Carving Folk-Art Birds https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/carving-folk-art-birds/ Tue, 13 May 2025 18:11:00 +0000 https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/?p=24188 Highlight the tool marks with a little paint to simulate...

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Highlight the tool marks with a little paint to simulate feathers on these simple designs

By Don Dearolf

Carve these simple designs with just a few tools. The pattern is generic enough that you can easily adapt the design to your favorite bird with only a few knife cuts and some paint. Before making your first cut, check out our exclusive article on adding cushions to your gouge handles.

Carving the Birds

Transfer the pattern to the blank and cut the two profiles with a band saw. Leave the wood thick around the beak. Then, carefully round the sharp corners with a knife. Thin the edges of the tail, but leave the middle thicker to create an oval shape when looking at the end. Carve the eye channels. Then, carve the beak. Burn the outlines of the eyes, around the base of the beak, and the mouth lines. Drill a small hole in the bottom and insert a toothpick (to mount the bird to the base, and to hold the bird while painting).

Painting the Birds

Finish the project with thinned acrylic paints. Apply thin washes of color and build up the color in layers. Use Payne’s grey for the dark parts of the back, burnt umber for the brown areas, and raw sienna for the breast. Then, when the paint is dry, apply a heavily thinned coat of burnt umber to tie everything together.

Paint each eye with full-strength Mars black and allow it to dry. Then add a dot of full-strength burnt umber in the bottom front corner and a titanium white highlight dot in the upper back corner of each eye. When the eyes are fully dry, dry-brush titanium white over the whole piece to highlight the tool marks.

Making the Base

Slice a small section of a tree limb across the grain. Drill a hole matching the diameter of the toothpick in the center of the slice. Apply a clear finish to the base. When it is dry, glue a toothpick into the bottom of the bird and the hole in the base.

 

Materials

• Basswood, 1 1/4″ (3.2cm) thick: 2 1/2″ x 3″ (6.4cm x 7.6cm)

• Tree limb slice, 3/4″ (1.9cm) thick: 2″ (5.1cm)-dia. 

• Toothpick

• Acrylic paints, such as Liquitex: burnt umber, Mars black, Payne’s grey, raw sienna, titanium white

• Clear finish (for base)

• Glue

Tools

• Carving knife

• Small gouge

• Woodburner with nibs: assorted

• Paintbrushes: assorted

• Drill with bit: 1/16″ (2mm)-dia.

About the Author

Don Dearolf painted for several years before taking up carving in 1994 after his brother Dave took him to the Lancaster County Woodcarvers Show. Don loved to carve and share patterns, blanks, and rough outs with others.

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Carve & Burn Bird Ornaments https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/carve-burn-bird-ornaments/ Thu, 07 Nov 2024 13:01:00 +0000 https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/?p=23820 Add life to a tree or window with these bright...

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Add life to a tree or window with these bright avian adornments

By Michele Parsons

I love to give inspirational gifts around the holidays, as days grow shorter and people start to pine after warmth and sunlight—and what better to deliver inspiration than a few friendly birds? These ornaments can be carved, burned, and finished quickly; they’re also fun and satisfying to make.

I used slices of wood with natural bark edges that you can find at most craft stores for a rustic feel. You could also cut circles from thin basswood or any other wood you prefer. For a different look, enlarge the pattern and make a wall hanging. Before diving in, learn how to keep your woodburner clean in our exclusive article.

Prepping and Carving

Size the pattern to fit your wood. Use graphite paper to transfer the bird-and-branches pattern to the blank. Make stop cuts around all of the lines, and then carve the background down around them with a micromotor with an assortment of small bits or a set of small hand gouges. Then sand around the birds and branches. Focus on making the background smooth for the lettering. Use graphite paper to transfer the lettering to the background. Burn the letters using a small writing nib and, if desired, outline them with a skew nib. Burn the details on the birds and branches. Erase any remaining graphite.

Painting and Finishing

I add color using slightly thinned acrylic paint. Avoid painting over the burned areas because the pigment in the paint covers the burned texture. Finish with a few coats of semi-gloss spray lacquer.

 

MATERIALS

• Wood, such as basswood or birch ornament rounds

• Graphite transfer paper

• White rubber eraser

• Acrylic paints: assorted

•Finish, such as spray lacquer: semi-gloss

TOOLS

• Micromotor with small bits or small hand gouges

• Woodburner with nibs: small writer, skew

About the Author
Michele Parsons lives in N.C. near the Blue Ridge Mountains, where she draws inspiration. She earned a fine arts degree from Western Carolina University and spent her professional life as a graphic designer, art director, and executive director in the creation of educational materials. Michele is a frequent contributor to Pyrography magazine and has taught pyrography for nearly 20 years. She is also a regular instructor at the International Woodcarving Congress, Southeastern Woodcarving School, and John C. Campbell Folk School. To see more of her work, visit parsonswoodartistry.com.

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Carving a Big Cat https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/carving-a-big-cat/ Fri, 02 Aug 2024 14:38:00 +0000 https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/?p=23632 Make a black panther or a jaguar using the same...

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Make a black panther or a jaguar using the same pattern

By Don Self

There’s no specific type of cat called the “black panther.” Instead, the name can refer to any single-color (melanistic) big cat. In Asia and Africa, they are leopards, while those in the Americas are jaguars. I have long been fascinated by the jaguar’s strength and beauty, as well as its place in Aztec culture, so I had a classic jungle cat in mind when I carved and painted my basswood jaguar. However, you can carve the cat from walnut or butternut and use either paint or natural finish to create a black panther. Before you start carving your big cat, make sure your tools are sharp by using a rotary strop to easily sharpen your carving tools.

Use the carving as a pin, neckerchief slide, magnet, or box decoration, or increase the size substantially to make a wall hanging.

Carving Tips

• Orient the grain roughly parallel to the line connecting the corner of the eye and the nose.
This provides strength to the delicate areas.

•  Strop the knife just before you begin to carve the nose, eye, and ear. This ensures smooth cuts in these areas, which have difficult grain.

• While it’s possible to carve the entire project with a detail knife, the whisker pits and the outline of the eye highlight (inside the pupil) can be challenging to carve. Use a 1/16″ (2mm) veiner in those areas if needed.

Painting a Jaguar

Mix equal parts apricot, golden brown, and white to make gold paint. Dilute the paint 50 percent with  water and paint the gold areas. Mix white paint 1:1 with water and paint the white areas. While the paint is still wet, use a circular motion to blend the two colors where they meet. You may need to dilute the paint further to make the colors easier to blend. Allow the piece to dry thoroughly before painting the rest of the carving.

Iris: Mix gold with a touch of nutmeg brown;
thin slightly with water

Nose: Mix gold with khaki; thin slightly with water.
Grade to black at edges.

Markings: Black; thin slightly with water

Ears: Black; thin heavily with water

Rosettes on sides and back of head: nutmeg brown;
thin heavily with water

Painting a Black Panther

Thin dark charcoal gray paint 1:1 with water. Paint the entire carving and let dry.

Iris: Mix gold with a touch of nutmeg brown;
thin slightly with water

Nose: Pinkish brown darkening to black

Markings: Black; thin slightly with water

Using a Natural Finish

I carved this panther from butternut, applied a walnut stain, and finished it with Danish oil. To make the eye stand out, paint the pupil black and add a white highlight dot.

 

MATERIALS

• Basswood or butternut, 7/8″ (2.2cm) thick: 3″ x 4″ (7.6cm x 10.2cm)

•  Acrylic paint, such as Plaid Apple Barrel: black, white, khaki, apricot, golden brown, nutmeg brown, pink; black panther only: charcoal gray

• Danish oil (optional)

• Stain: walnut (optional)

TOOLS

• Detail knife with a 7/8″ (22mm)-long blade, such as a Notto

• Veiner: 1/16″ (2mm) such as Dockyard (optional)

•Paintbrush: #2 round, such as Loew-Cornell

About the Author

Don Self began whittling Boy Scout neckerchief slides in 1987. After retiring from a career in geology, Don returned to his native Alabama, where he joined the Tannehill Wood Carvers Club. He enjoys creating human and animal caricatures, and particularly relishes the challenge of converting an outrageous mental image into a 3-D wooden sculpture. Don typically works in basswood, painting each sculpture with acrylics, but he also enjoys working in butternut, cypress, and water oak, where the figure of the wood takes center stage.

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Cute Shelf-Sitter Cats https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/cute-shelf-sitter-cats/ Fri, 03 May 2024 14:16:04 +0000 https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/?p=23386 Folk-art felines make charming pins or decorations By Shawn Cipa...

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Folk-art felines make charming pins or decorations

By Shawn Cipa

I designed these carved dark and orange house cats to be mounted on my version of Noah’s ark. However, you can easily modify the patterns to turn them into shelf-sitters, pins, magnets, or ornaments. Adapt the paint suggestions to represent your family pet. Although there is a certain amount of detail and realism in these cats, I have attempted to infuse a modern folk-art flavor by incorporating bold colors and my own stylization. Before diving in to this project, check out how to care for your paintbrushes.

Carving

Cut the basic shapes with a band or scroll saw and carve the cats with your tools of choice. I use small palm gouges and a detail knife to work the pieces into shape and carve the details. I don’t sand the pieces, preferring to leave the carving marks to enhance the folk-art feel.

Finishing

I finish my carvings in a four-step process. First, seal the carving by applying a thin layer of boiled linseed oil thinned to a 1:1 mix with mineral spirits. Let the mixture soak in for a bit, and then wipe off the excess with a clean cotton rag. Let the carving dry overnight. Next, apply acrylic paints thinned slightly with water. Layer the paints, shading with darker tones. When the paint is dry, seal it with high-quality fast-drying satin polyurethane. Apply the polyurethane as thinly as possible, but work it into all of the crevices. Let the carving dry overnight. Finally, antique the carving with oil-based gel wood stain. Slather the gel stain on, and then immediately wipe it off with a cotton rag. Let the carving dry overnight.

Painting Guide


Dark Cat

• Base for body: dark chocolate (1)

• Stripe detail: black (1): striping detail

• Facial details, stripe highlights: antique white (2)

• Inside of ears: flesh (3)

Orange Cat

• Base for body: antique gold (1)

• Lowlights for body: Jack o’ lantern orange (1)

• Stripe details: rookwood red (1)

• Facial details and paws: antique white (3)

• Nose, inside of ears: flesh (2)

1 Americana

2 Apple Barrel

3 Ceramcoat

MATERIALS

• Basswood, 3/4″ (1.9cm) thick: dark cat, 1-5/8″ x 1 7/8″ (4.1cm x 4.8cm)

• Basswood, 3/4″ (1.9cm) thick: orange cat, 1-1/2″ x 2-1/4″ (3.8cm x 5.7cm)

• Acrylic paints: see Painting Guide above

• Boiled linseed oil

• Mineral spirits

• Fast-drying satin polyurethane

• Oil-based gel wood stain: antique oak, colonial, or old oak

• Cotton rags

TOOLS

• Knives: carving, detail

• Gouges: assorted small

• Saws: band or scroll

• Pencil

• Paintbrushes: assorted

About the Author
Shawn Cipa was recognized as “Santa Carver of the Year” after he won Woodcraft’s National Santa Carving contest. He is the author of several books with Fox Chapel Publishing. Shawn accepts commissions for his work and can be contacted at shawncipa.com.

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Paintbrush Care for Carvers https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/paintbrush-care-for-carvers/ Fri, 03 May 2024 14:15:24 +0000 https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/?p=23388 Learn to select, clean, and store your brushes like a...

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Learn to select, clean, and store your brushes like a pro

By Betty Padden

Selecting paintbrushes can be a daunting task given the array of choices, but knowing the basics can make a world of difference! I’m here to break down the different types, shapes and sizes, and their uses. I’ll also cover brush cleaning and storage. As you use them, your brushes will become like old friends—much like your chisels and gouges; you’ll start to know how they will perform in a given situation. Care for these tools correctly and you’ll be able to use them for years! After learning all about brush care, try out your skills on these cute and cuddly cat shelf sitters.

Bristles

Naturally, the bristles are the most important part of the brush. They are made either with synthetic fibers (these are very “springy” and smooth in texture), natural fibers (hair of various animals—kolinsky sable, pony, hog, etc.) or a combination of the two fibers.

Natural bristles have barbs or scales, which make them thicker, stiffer, and a little harder to clean. Due to their stiffness, natural bristle brushes are mainly used for canvas painting with thicker paint. Typically, they are more expensive than synthetic brushes; however, some can be less expensive than the synthetic options.

Synthetic brushes, which are smoother and springier than their natural counterparts, go with a variety of paints and are typically easier to clean. I use mainly synthetic brushes for applying paint, but I reserve some natural bristle brushes for blending. Pricing depends on the size; I spend $3-$5 on smaller brushes and $10-$15 on larger ones. However, buying a set is usually cheaper.

 

Bristle Shapes

Rounds

Workhorse of the set; used for applying paint and washes.

Flats

Used for painting large areas and adding textures, such as house or roof details.

Angled flats

Used like regular flats, but tip can reach into smaller areas.

Filberts

Good for blending or painting a soft edge.

Script liners

Used for fine lines and detail

Blenders

Used to blur the border between two colors to form a gradation of color.

Fan brushes

Used to paint textured areas like clouds, trees, or leaves.

“Spoiled” brushes

Great for blending and adding texture (It may be the Yankee in me, but I have a hard time throwing a brush out!).

Washing Your Brushes

When using acrylics, have a container of water ready to wash your brushes instantly because the paint dries so quickly. Note: It is safe to wash acrylic paint off in your work or household sink. Use warm—not hot—water; hot water can cause the glue used to secure the bristles to fail.

Clean your oil paint brushes in a paint thinner before washing with water. Note: You can leave your paint thinner in a sealed jar, let the pigment settle, and reuse at a later time. Be sure to collect oil paint sludge and dispose of it at your local hazardous waste site. Do your best to remove all the paint, especially from the ferrule; paint left to dry here will cause the bristles to splay out and separate. 

After you wash your brushes in paint thinner and squeeze them with a cloth, give them a final wash with a brush cleaner; I like The Master’s Brush Cleaner (use as directed). A good brush cleaner will even restore a brush with hardened paint on it to some degree. Shape the bristles while they are wet and let them air dry.

 

Storing Your Brushes

Store your brushes upright in a container so the bristles don’t bend. I use a simple jar for organized storage and easy access. You can get carriers of all sizes at any art supply store if you need to transport your brushes and other painting supplies.

About the Author
Betty Padden and her husband, Bob, own Wooden Apple Signmakers in Auburn, Mass. They have been professional sign carvers for 47 years and have been teaching their craft to students for more than 30. They are the creators of SantaCarls®, a unique figure that has been sold at Disney parks and Busch Gardens. Betty also designs and paints for Ne’Qwa Art and Blossom Bucket, among other companies. Visit bettypadden.com for cutouts, patterns, and designs, and help for woodcarvers struggling with projects. See more of Betty’s work at woodenapplesignmakers.com.

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Happy Santa https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/happy-santa/ Wed, 13 Dec 2023 18:34:13 +0000 https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/?p=22955 The compact styling of this smiling fellow makes him an ideal project...

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The compact styling of this smiling fellow makes him an ideal project for beginners

By Tina Toney

This Happy Santa captures the essence of Jolly Old St. Nicholas. He has a straight-forward gaze, symmetrical pose, and his hands are tucked warmly into mittens, which makes this a great project for beginners. I’ve given him a simple coat and undergarment free of embellishments. Any extra decorative painting can be easily incorporated into the banded areas on the sleeves and hat. Simple textures and a basic paint scheme are easily reproduced, but combine to make a pleasant Santa full of holiday cheer. You may reduce or enlarge the pattern to suit the dimensions of your wood. Carve the Santa, using your tools of choice. To carve the Santa easier, attach your blank to a carver’s arm to have better control while carving.

Painting

This Santa has a very simple palette. The cheek color is enhanced using powdered pastels lightly applied with a soft-bristle brush. Don’t flip the brush or it will contaminate the surrounding mustache.

FACE: medium flesh with shading flesh applied in the shadowed areas. Santa red is washed over the cheeks.

EYES: uniform blue, lamp black pupil with white highlight.

BEARD & HAIR: antique white with snow white drybrushed across higher ridges.

UNDERGARMENT & BANDS: Paynes grey with lamp black band.

COAT: Napa red with lamp black shading.

FUR TRIM: buttermilk with white drybrushed across high spots.

BELT & MITTENS: lamp black with copper accent lines.

FINISH: If you use any powdered pastels for cheek colors, blow any loose powder off before sealing with acrylic matte spray. This piece is antiqued using Indian Sand Trewax Floor Paste Wax applied with an old soft toothbrush. Immediately use Clear Trewax Paste Wax to pull off the excess Indian Sand. You may work back and forth using the two waxes, until you are satisfied with the effect. Allow the wax to set about three minutes; then buff with a soft brush or an old soft tee shirt.

 

MATERIALS

  • Basswood, 3″ (7.6cm) thick: x 3-1/2″  x 7-1/2″ (8.9 x 19.1cm)
  • Acrylic paints, such as DecoArt Americana: antique white, buttermilk, lamp black, medium flesh, Napa red, Payne’s gray, Santa red, shading flesh, snow white, uniform blue
  • Acrylic sealer, such as DecoArt Americana: matte
  • Trewax Floor Paste Wax: Indian sand/mahogany
  • Trewax Paste Wax: clear

TOOLS

  • Carving tools of choice
  • Soft brush
  • Clean cloth

 

About the Author

Tina has been woodcarving since 1981 when she took a personal enrichment class through her local community college. Tina has authored several books including Creative Christmas Carving and Easy Weekend Carving Projects.

 

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Miniature Scarecrow Ornament https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/miniature-scarecrow-ornament/ Tue, 26 Sep 2023 13:14:22 +0000 https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/?p=22762 Quick and easy carving  adds a whimsical touch to fall décor...

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Quick and easy carving  adds a whimsical touch to fall décor

By Gerald Smith

I carve a lot of Christmas ornaments to sell at craft fairs. Recently, a customer requested fall ornaments so she could decorate her feather tree to celebrate autumn. I created a few pumpkins and some leaves in fall colors. I had previously carved some larger scarecrows and decided to try carving miniature ones. The scarecrow ornaments have been very popular. After you finish carving your miniature scarecrows, check out our exclusive article on a list of painting supplies to have on hand before you begin painting.

Carve the scarecrow first and then drill a 1/8″-dia. hole for the stem. Carve the stem from a piece of scrap wood and glue it into the hole.

Thin the paints to the consistency of a stain. For darker paint colors, apply two coats of paint. Let the paint dry and then use undiluted black for the pumpkin’s face. You can add a plaid pattern to the shirt using an ultra-fine black Sharpie. After the paint dries, apply wax with a toothbrush. Allow the wax to dry for 30 minutes and then buff it with a shoe brush.

 

MATERIALS:

• Basswood, 3/4″ (19mm) thick: 3″ x 3-1/2″ (7.6cm x 8.9cm)

• Scrap of basswood (pumpkin stem)

• Acrylic paints, such as Apple Barrel: black, brown, cardinal crimson, harvest orange, woodland green; FolkArt: midnight; Ceramcoat: straw

• Wax, such as Minwax dark special

TOOLS:

• Bench knife

• Drill with 1/8″ (3mm)-dia. bit

• Toothbrush

• Shoe brush

• #2 Paintbrush: round

 

About the Author

Gerald Smith has been carving since he was a boy.  In the early 1970s, Gerald moved to Colorado Springs, Colo., where he got involved with the Wood Carver’s Museum and started carving more actively. A friend gave Gerald’s business the name of “Santa’s Whiskers” because of Gerald’s beard and the Santas he carves. 

 

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Painting Supplies https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/painting-supplies/ Tue, 26 Sep 2023 13:04:11 +0000 https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/?p=22767 Accessories to help you paint successfully by Vicki Rhodes Everyone...

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Accessories to help you paint successfully

by Vicki Rhodes

Everyone knows that you need paint and paintbrushes to paint. However, there are a variety of other useful items to make the experience more efficient and enjoyable. The following items are the ones I find most beneficial. Once you have have all your paint supplies ready, try them out while painting a miniature scarecrow ornament.

Brush Soap

Brushes should be cleaned well with a good quality soap when you finish painting. While painting, rinse the brushes in water and occasionally dip into an extender such as Jo Sonja’s Retarder to keep the paint from drying in the bristles until you have time to clean them.

 

Containers for Water

You’ll need two water containers; one to rinse the paint from your brush and the other to pick up water as you paint. Dirty water will change the color of your paint, so keep this container clean. A useful addition to your painting supplies is a brush basin that is divided into two sections with ridges in the bottom. Gently stroke brushes across the ridges to get all of the paint out.

 

 

Containers for Mediums, Such as Flow Medium and Clear Glaze Medium

You will need at least two small containers to hold mediums. These can be anything from the cap for a bottle to small candle cups or eggcups.

 

Disposable Acrylic Palette Paper

Paper palettes are available in pads. These are needed for color mixing and dry palette blending. Make sure the paper you select has one slick side. Pads of palette paper listed for use of both acrylic and oils, which do not have the slick side, may absorb the moisture from acrylic paint too quickly.

 

Distilled Water in a Squeeze Bottle

Use distilled water if storing your palette of colors in a closed container for any length of time. Some tap water contains mold that may grow and contaminate the paint.

 

Palette Knife

A plastic, bent-blade palette knife is great for mixing colors and mediums. They’re inexpensive and easy to clean.

 

Paper Towels

Use inexpensive paper towels to set up your wet palette. Thick paper towels may be used for wiping your brush when painting. Fold them into quarters to save space in your work area.

 

Pencil and Pencil Sharpener

A #2HB pencil is the easiest to find. Your pencil may be used for drawing or making notes in your sketchbook. The pencil sharpener will also be used to sharpen soapstone (see below).

 

Sandpaper

Small pieces of various grits of sandpaper are used both for surface preparation and painting. Medium- or light-colored sandpaper will not lose its color on the background. Fingernail files, which are available in a variety of grades, are excellent for hard to reach places.

 

Sketchbook or Journal

A spiral bound sketchbook or a small journal should be kept for gathering inspiration, color samples, and notes. Glue a mylar pocket from an office supply store to the back to hold small things

 

Soapstone

Soapstone or plumber’s chalk comes in a stick. It is available at hardware stores in the plumbing supplies. Sharpen the soapstone with a pencil sharpener as needed. This is used to sketch onto the surface of carvings because the lines are easily removed.

 

Towel for Work Area

An old towel or cloth protects the work surface and provides a cushion for your project.

 

Wet Palette

A wet palette is used for paint storage and may be set up using any shallow container. A wet palette may be as simple as a paper plate or a foam meat tray. An airtight container for food storage will keep paint workable for several days or weeks. Lay a damp paper towel on top of your palette, and apply the paint on top of the paper towel.

 

 

About the Author

Vicki Rhodes has authored books and numerous magazine articles.

 

Get the Fall 2023 Issue

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For more articles like this, subscribe to Woodcarving Illustrated magazine.

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Plus! Get digital mini magazines in your e-mail between printed issues.
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